Type: Single Malt Scotch Whisky
Chillfiltered: No
Added colouring: No
Owner: The Scotch Malt Whisky Society
Official website: www.smws.com
This is the first of three non-consecutive double reviews dedicated to the Scotch Malt Whisky Society and its single malts, identified by numerical codes and poetic afflatus. We begin with two young peated whiskies, one from the Highlands and one from Islay. The order is strictly alphabetical.
SMWS A True Harmony of Flavours
Origin: Highlands (Scotland)
Strength: 60.8%
Ageing casks: Ex-Bourbon hogshead, 2nd fill French oak barrique finish
Average price: € 80.00
The first is a single cask from Ardmore, distilled on 9 March 2006, aged in an ex-bourbon hogshead and finished in a not-first-fill French oak cask for a total of 13 years. 286 bottles were produced, with a whooping alcohol content of 60.8%.
Ardmore is a distillery we have always held in high regard, so we are even more curious than usual.
Tasting Notes
The colour is golden.
On the nose, Ardmore’s characteristic peated aroma is somewhat muted, with hints of charcoal, burnt grass, smoked bacon and a significant contribution of pepper. Notes of ripe banana, Catalan cream, roasted chestnuts, Oro Saiwa biscuits and shortbread intertwine on the nose. A hint of hull is matched by a Fisherman’s Friend style balsamic lunge.
On the palate, the buoyancy of the strength translates into an exaggerated pepperiness. The fruity side takes the lead with yellow apple, spadona pear, banana and slightly unripe peach. A touch of charcoal and a hint of custard as the hull returns. Again, the Ardmore smoke is little more than a caress.
The medium-long finish aligns custard and yellow apple with a generous sprinkling of pepper.
The harmony between the different scents evoked by the title is certainly a plus, but the overall feeling is that Ardmore’s signature is somewhat lost in the combination of casks. This is not to say that it is a bad whisky; we simply recognise its qualities, but prefer others.
Vote: 85/100
SMWS Unbridled Joy
Origin: Islay (Scotland)
Strength: 58.5%
Ageing casks: Ex-Bourbon refill hogshead
Average price: € 120.00
The second whisky is a young Caol Ila, distilled on 20 February 2009 and matured for 9 years in a Hosghead ex-Bourbon cask before being bottled at 58.5% in 282 bottles.
We have tasted a lot of Caol Ila over the years, mostly ex-Bourbon, and it has never disappointed. Let’s see how this one does.
Tasting Notes
The colour is straw yellow.
On the nose, Caol Ila smoke is at its best: full, rich and intense, but not arrogant, with hints of pepper and grilled meat, and a distant memory of a bonfire that has been extinguished for hours. There are hints of pastry and custard, with a balsamic hint of liquorice. A grate of lemon zest and a hint of smoked yellow apple are accompanied by a spicy ensemble (rosemary and thyme).
The palate is peppery and the strength is muscular. Smoked ham and Oransoda are not necessarily a happy combination, but they work here, along with custard, coffee powder, a vague memory of orange cream and a mirage of dark chocolate (at least 90%). Smoked apple on the nose, peach on the palate, also smoked.
The finish is very long, as you would expect from Caol Ila, with an aftertaste of smoke, pepper and orange peel that is so persistent you could ask for a place to stay.
For fans of the distillery, this is, as the title suggests, an unbridled delight. But the truly commendable aspect of this whisky is its ability to express the DNA of Caol Ila in all its richness, enhancing its sensory depth in the best possible way.
Vote: 88/100