Origin: Lowlands (Scotland)
Type: Single Malt Scotch Whisky
Strength: 47%ABV
Chillfiltered: No
Added colouring: No
Owner: Halewood International
Average price: € 40.00
Official website: crabbiewhisky.com
As it often happens in the history of Scotch whisky, in the first decade of this century a large international company, Halewood International, decided to revive a brand associated with a well-known merchant and blended producer from nineteenth-century Edinburgh, John Crabbie & Co., recreating a line of single malts and third-party blends under the name Crabbie.
It doesn’t take long before they decide to open their own distillery, and by 2018, the construction of Bonnington begins right near where John Crabbie’s shop was located, in Leith, Edinburgh, thus bringing whisky distillation back to the area after over a century. However, their first single malt was released in 2022 under the Chain Pier label, from a small pilot distillery that was kept active between 2018 and 2019 during the construction of Bonnington.
Inaugurated the following year, it distributes the first single malt (a single cask ex-port) in 2024, while to date it features only two bottlings, the ex-muscat cask and the ex-oloroso cask, plus one edition in ex-sherry PX.
Bonnington Ex-Oloroso Cask Single Malt Scotch Whisky
Tasting Notes
On the nose, it reveals all the expected notes, from the spices of nutmeg and cinnamon to nusùts (toasted hazelnuts, almonds) and dried fruit (raisins, figs, plums) to milk chocolate and coffee. It becomes rather more acidic over time, with a marked sulfurous trace and young traits of yeast and malt. Emblematic.
The influence of the casks is, if possible, even more pronounced on the palate, overshadowing any hint of the spirit’s personality. It seems almost superfluous to articulate the drinking impressions, which fully adhere to the sherried theme, with a slightly unkempt bitter and vegetal component that lingers on the lenght.
Carrying to a rather short finish, among vegetal notes and sherried tones, a lot of acidity and a metallic note that is the only one to persist.
Review: I could call it a sherry bomb, but in reality, lacking in energy and depth, it’s more of a small firecracker. Definitely very young and undeveloped, the positive aspect is its incredibly low price, especially when considering the beginnings of other distilleries.
Vote: 77/100
Bonnington Ex-Muscat Cask Single Malt Scotch Whisky
Tasting Notes
Initially a bit closed on the nose, it still maintains a fairly gentle profile, which, due to aging in ex-wine barrels, is quite peculiar. At times floral, between freesia and magnolia, it slowly reveals notes of ripe cherry, caramelized apple, praline almonds, panna cotta, and maple syrup: sweetness accompanied by light hints of nutmeg and a faint metallic trace in the background. It becomes warmer and rounder over time, with a certain elegance in the finish.
On the palate, the experience entirely changes, with a spicy entry of black pepper, ginger, nutmeg, and cinnamon, framing a light body amidst red fruits (raspberries, cherries), bitter orange marmalade, almonds, subtle hints of coffee, and mint. The metallic trace returns in length, accompanied by licorice root and bitter cocoa.
Finale rather brief, with spices, vegetal and bitter notes, licorice, raspberries.
Review: It’s a shame that it loses its way a bit when tasted, as it reveals unexpected nuances on the nose given its youth. But whisky is meant to be drunk, and here it struggles to stand out, highlighting all the limitations of its age, and perhaps of the distillery itself.
Vote: 79/100