Origin: Speyside (Scotland)
Type: Single Malt Scotch Whisky
Strength: 57.5%ABV
Ageing casks: Finished in ex-Wine
Chillfiltered: No
Additional coloring: No
Owner: Diageo
Average price: € 250.00
Official website: www.malts.com
Abandoning last year’s Japanese velleities, for the 2024 Special Releases, Mortlach dives entirely into ex-wine casks for finishing, between white Ramandolo and red Sangiovese, wanting to evoke the decadent atmospheres (their words) of sunset aperitifs.
Wanting to find out which is better, if the beast of Dufftown or a Select spritz, I pour into the glass in the sunlight so I can see clearly.
Tasting Notes
Crisp and fresh on the nose, with fruit and floral intersections that actually suggest an aperitif: apple, apricot (fresh and dried), peach, pineapple, green melon, blackcurrant, cherry, hawthorn, orange peel and a hint of lemon. After this initial approach, a mellifluous side of marzipan, caramel, marshmallow, coconut oil and acacia honey emerges. The sulphurous soul of Mortlach is not crushed by so much sweetness, being well present as thread in the aromas, especially in the length. Striking.
The attack on the palate is vinous, amidst a marked sweetness and astringency that echoes the tones of the nose, increasing the floral influence (some sugary violets also appear) and the presence of red fruits (gooseberries, blueberries). Confectionery is in a distinct minority, leaving marzipan to fly the flag while a rather combative spicy section (black pepper, ginger) emerges. In the rearguard, there are scattered notes of coffee, cocoa, nuts (pecans, macadamia) and the sulfur part, relegated to the end of the sip.
Quite long in the mouth between vegetal notes, red fruits, licorice, nuts, wood and a slightly bitter note.
A well-balanced and elegant finishing, with a pleasant and engaging liveliness that upsets the expectations of the distillery but doesn’t completely obliterate its personality. Difficult to give an overall assessment: if you think it is a Mortlach, the judgment should be quite unapologetic, but the drinking is very pleasant, rich and complex, so you have to compromise a bit.
Vote: 85/100