Origin: Highlands (Scotland)
Type: Single Malt Scotch Whisky
Strength: 46%ABV
Ageing casks: Ex-Bourbon and ex-Ruby Port
Chillfiltered: No
Added coloring: No
Owner: Brown-Forman Corporation (Benriach)
Average price: € 60.00
Official website: www.glenglassaugh.com
From what I could gather during my recent trip to Speyside, Glenglassaugh is the only distillery among the three owned by the Brown-Forman Group (Jack Daniel’s) that is currently in operation. BenRiach is inactive, and at GlenDronach, which is also celebrating its bicentennial this year, significant restoration work is underway (a bit intrusive for passing tourists who have to navigate around bulldozers and workers). It’s worth mentioning that once you find yourself in the vicinity of Portsoy, a true little corner of paradise (the back of the building housing Glenglassaugh overlooks the beautiful Sandend Bay), the distillery gave the impression of being anything but operational, and at the entrance, there was a sign stating that the Visitor Center was currently closed…
The whisky of today is part of the Wood Range Finish, a series of bottlings introduced by Whisky Maker Rachel Barrie in 2017, which also includes a Peated Port Wood Finish, a PX Sherry Wood Finish, and a Peated Virgin Oak Finish.
Most of the maturation took place in ex-bourbon American barrels, while the duration of aging in ex-ruby port pipes is not stated.
Tasting Notes
The color is gold.
The nose needs a bit of time to open up because the initial impression, in the first few minutes, is of wood, with a related spicy compartment (pepper and cloves) and a slight alcoholic sting that isn’t exactly promising. With a bit of patience, the course is corrected by an important pastry dimension (shortcrust pastry, vanilla, and zabaglione) and a vague acidity of red berry fruits and strawberry. The floral aspect aligns violets and cyclamen, in an overall picture that is not too significant but neither unpleasant.
The palate is consistent but noticeably poorer. The creamy legacy prevails, the spiciness becomes more intense, while the berries have turned into gummy candies. The sweetness is predominant but not overwhelming, and there is also a certain astringency that reappears in the finish, which is more persistent than expected, still spicy and soberly sweet, with reminders of gummy berry candies tantalizing the salivation.
Review: How many times have we repeated that ex-port casks are among the most difficult to handle… Here, the caution in use was perhaps even excessive, as the contribution appears rather limited. It’s not a bad whisky, mind you; it’s clear that it has been crafted with care and certainly has its reason for being. However, it is a bit timid, appreciated in the moment but never risks leaving a lasting impression.
Vote: 85/100