Origin: Isle of slay (Scotland)
Type: Single Malt Scotch Whisky
Strength: 57.5%ABV
Ageing casks: Ex-Madeira Refill
Chillfiltered: No
Additional coloring: No
Owner: Kilchoman
Average price: € 112.00
Official website: kilchomandistillery.com
Today I am starting a series of tastings from the whisky tasting organised by Whisky Club Italia on 8 June. There are a couple of bottlings dedicated to 2025 Fèis Ìle (Kilchoman and Bowmore), a couple of hand-filled offerings (Caol Ila and Lagavulin) and a couple of samples straight from Springbank’s Open Day.
I am happy to start with Kilchoman, which offered enthusiasts who flocked to the island a truly exclusive whisky: a vatting of two ex-Madeira refill casks filled in 2015 and bottled after 9 years at 57.5%ABV in only 615 bottles sold exclusively at the distillery for £97.50 each and today – I imagine – already sold out.
The declared peating is 20ppm.
The reason for choosing these casks, in the words of Anthony Wills, founder of Kilchoman: ‘While looking for something a little unusual to bottle, I came across several Madeira hogsheads that had been filled with our 100% Islay spirit in 2015. It is very rare for our 100% Islay distillate to mature entirely in casks other than ex-bourbon or ex-sherry, so I was thrilled to find these unusual casks that are coming along so well. The lighter level of peating allows the bold notes of Madeira to come through in the whisky.”
Tasting Notes
3The colour is very similar to caramel, only slightly lighter.
On the nose, Kilchoman’s signature is clearly recognisable in the notes of fat sizzling on the grill and bonfire smoke. Intertwined hints of roasted chestnuts and balsamic vinegar prelude the arrival of markers such as shortcrust pastry and dark chocolate, with a generous sprinkling of pepper to thicken the tone. Fruit, in the form of apricot, is clearly perceptible in the background, while a balsamic touch of liquorice and vague memories of ink further enrich the olfactory range.
In the mouth, the pepper is immediately aggressive, with a robust hint of charcoal to support it. The roasted chestnuts return from the nose, but soon give way to notes of grilled raisins, Malaga and caffè latte. I then detect a very specific scent that I find difficult to describe in words: something like “grandmother’s house”, a mixture of velvet and brocade, good food, something round and welcoming, very evocative on a personal level. The picture is completed by a more easily definable memory of barley water.
The medium-length finish is warm and peppery, with the smoke slowly fading away until it disappears completely, and a creamy vagueness that lingers on the tongue, inviting the next sip.
Review: A very distinctive bottling, as one would expect given the occasion and the wood chosen. In my humble opinion, the ex-Madeira casks are only noticeable in a few hints of creamy sweetness, which is otherwise very restrained. What is clearly recognisable, however, is the unique spirit of Kilchoman, which is perhaps what matters most to fans of the distillery.
Vote: 87/100