Origin: Speyside (Scotland)
Type: Single Malt Scotch Whisky
Chillfiltered: No
Added colouring: No
As aficionados well know, Ardmore is the only distillery in the Highlands that produces inescapably peated whisky. Today we taste, in ascending order of age, four drams, all from independent bottlers and with different types of casks. A sort of didactic vertical, in short. Needless to say, we are very curious. And thirsty.
Hepburn’s Choice Ardmore 2013 6yo
Strength: 46%ABV
Ageing casks: Ex-Wine
Owner: Hunter Laing & Co.
Average price: € 50.00
Official website: www.hunterlaing.com/range/hepburns-choice/
Vote: 87/100
Hepburn’s Choice is one of Hunter Laing’s many offerings. The series pays homage to his maternal grandfather, William Hepburn, a diplomat of rank with a penchant for Scotch.
Here we have an Ardmore distilled in 2013 and bottled in 2020 at a classic 46%ABV. Two hogshead ex-wine for a total outturn of 669 bottles.
Tasting notes
The colour is gold.
The first impression on the nose is a potpourri of popcorn, charcoal and salted caramel, with a spicy note of black pepper. Bacon on the grill and BBQ sauce awaken memories of summer barbecues, while with a hint of walnut we are suddenly led to the end of the meal (unfortunately still on an empty stomach). As the drink continues, a fruity mirage in the shape of an apricot catches our attention.
The mouthfeel is peppery and the charcoal is not slow to make itself felt. Cream, meringue and milk chocolate contribute to the dram’s sweetness. As the minutes pass, an impression of orange peel turns into one of orange candied fruit.
The finish is long and peppery with orange peel and more charcoal.
The reduced degree has probably mitigated the ard(m)ore of youth and the ex-wine cask has contributed a sweet touch that makes the drinking almost caressing. Yet another demonstration that, in the right hands, short ageing is enough to make a very good whisky.
Reviews of Hunter Laing whisky
A. D. Rattray Ardmore 2013 8yo
Strength: 59.4%ABV
Ageing cask: Ex-Bourbon barrel
Owner: A.D. Rattray Ltd.
Average price: € 60,00
Official website: www.adrattray.com
Vote: 85/100
This instead is a single cask, ex-bourbon barrel, #800650, filled on 12 December 2013 and bottled by the independent A. D. Rattray on 23 May 2022, in its natural colour and without chillfiltration, at 59.4%,ABV in 257 bottles.
Tasting notes
The colour is light gold.
On the nose, the attack is inevitably peaty, of a peat that tastes of charcoal and tyre. A generous sprinkling of black pepper anticipates a fruity turn of peach in syrup, while a custard-like sweetness is accompanied by a floral effluvium of lily of the valley and a hint of damp earth. As the minutes pass, a balsamic liquorice background emerges with the smoke note losing intensity. Granny Smith apple and dried biscuits close a really interesting aromatic range, and quite surprising in its richness for such a young whisky.
The mouthfeel is very peppery and smoky (cigarette-like), and it is also a tad alcoholic: the alcohol content, almost non-existent on the nose, kicks up a notch here, on the other hand it is not exactly for schoolgirls. Yellow apple and orange peel envelop the palate, before an unusual impression of eraser takes over along with a bite of Williams pear.
The finish is not very long, but rather peppery, smoky and, alas, alcoholic, with a mirage of yellow apple vainly trying to leave a lasting impression.
The nose held great promise, showing a whisky far more mature than its age. On the palate and in the finish, youth can be felt. And that is a pity. It remains an interesting dram: not a naked Ardmore, but almost.
Reviews of A.D. Rattray whisky
Càrn Mòr Ardmore 2009 13yo
Strength: 47.5%ABV
Agering casks: Ex PX sherry hogshead
Owner: Morrison Distillers
Average price: € 80.00
Official website: www.carnmorwhisky.co.uk
Vote: 88/100
This time the casks of origin are ex-PX, for a whisky distilled in 2009 and bottled by Morrison Distillers under the Càrn Mòr label in 2023 in 1776 bottles. The alcohol content is the usual for the Strictly Limited series: 47.5%ABV.
Tasting notes
The colour is amber.
Approaching the glass to the nose is like approaching the industrial area of Arzignano with the car windows open: the nostrils are literally lined with an intense tannery scent. Alongside this note, curious but not exactly attractive, are impressions of brine, seaweed on the shoreline and filthy cordage (from Arzignano, evidently, we have travelled on a ferry to Venice). Memories of charcoal and congealed fat on the grill, however distinct, do not entirely cover a balsamic background of liquorice. After a few minutes, it is as if a cigarette were extinguished on a glazed date. A hint of caramel closes the aromatic range.
On the palate, the caramel itself acts as a trait d’union with the nose. Sizzling grill, smoked prune and hazelnut: a curious ensemble to which pan-fried frankfurters, charred sultanas and grilled figs are added. A spicy note of black pepper opens the door to a discreetly long finish, with an impression of smoked ham and a touch of liquorice.
Dirty and fun, it’s not exactly a whisky for first-time drinkers. But for those who fancy trying a dram that is unlike any other, it is even recommended.
Paloma Ardmore 2008 13yo
Strength: 54.2%ABV
Ageing cask: Ex Palo Cortado sherry finish
Owner: Goldfinch Whisky Merchants
Average price: € 105.00
Official website: www.goldfinchwhisky.com
Vote: 87/100
And to close, a single cask from a former Palo Cortado cask, in a series from the Scottish bottler Goldfinch (about which we will report in more detail later) called Paloma which houses different whiskies but all aged in former Palo Cortado. The distillation year is 2008, the bottling year 2023. The outturn is 340 bottles.
Tasting notes
The colour is light amber.
On the nose, the very first impression is of yellow orange juice, which is almost immediately accompanied by a very sweet caramel note, a sprinkling of black pepper and hints of dates and BBQ sauce. A balsamic background of liquorice is matched by walnuts and almonds, while Ardmore’s peat here is an aromatic, unlit bonfire smoke that becomes lighter and lighter as the minutes pass. As the drinking continues, the pepper and balsamic background are felt with increasing intensity. There is also some damp earthiness.
In the mouth, caramel plays a leading role. Yellow orange peel, milk-honey caramels and a slight peppiness are shy comprimarios. Smoke is a mirage in the distance. Caramelized apricots and a mix of dried fruits contribute to the overall feeling of softness.
The finish is long and warm, with more caramel and yellow orange peel teasing the palate, pushing voluptuously to the next sip.
Gourmand and irresistible, a whisky enveloping in its body and calibrated in its alcohol content, which restores with balance both the nature of the distillate and the influence of the ageing cask. One leaves the drink reassured, in body and spirit.