Origin: Speyside (Scotland)
Type: Single Scotch Malt Whisky
Strength: 52.3%ABV
Ageing cask: Ex-Bourbon hoghshead first fill
Chillfiltered: No
Added colouring: No
Owner: Phil & Simon Thompson
Average price: € 300.00
Official website: www.thompsonbrosdistillers.com
Vote: 92/100
Dornoch is a pleasant seaside village in north-east Scotland, not far from the distilleries of Glenmorangie and Balblair, and boasts one of the world’s best-known whisky bars founded by brothers Phil and Simon Thompson.
From selling whisky to wanting to produce it is a short step, and thanks to successful crowdfunding in 2017, the Dornoch distillery (founded inside the castle of the same name) began producing whisky (and gin) following a vintage style and small quantities, with the first bottling released in 2020.
While their distillate rested in casks, the two Thompsons launched a label as independent bottlers of whisky and rum, called of course Thompson Bros, which still garners much acclaim among enthusiasts.
Here’s an edition made for the Italian market (and their distributor, Beija-Flor) with a 1995 Glenburgie that in 2023 yielded 245 bottles, which at the Milano Whisky Festival that year I practically let anyone taste, and it’s about time I did the same!
A final note on the two brothers: in 2023 they obtained permits to build a second distillery on the site, Dornoch South, with construction work expected to begin between 2024 and 2025.
Tasting notes
On the nose it’s sharp and seductive, a blade of honey and flowers penetrating the nostrils with a grip of custard tartlet and kiwi. The soul of this whisky is all here, a penetrating and acidulous aromatic envelope (pineapple, propolis, lemon, wisteria) that encloses a sweeter and caressing heart (almond paste, peach in syrup, melon, vanilla), in a harmonious balance that captivates. Over time, the sweet part increases in volume, especially in the fruit component, without ever losing that algid part (with a mineral vein of wet stone) that maintains its tension. Spectacular.
In the mouth, it’s a fruit milkshake, dense and smooth, where it’s the tropical and citrus part that dominates, with a few slivers of ginger and nutmeg thrown into the mix. The acid and mineral part remains always on, with a snappy liveliness that bears its years very well, with flowers and propolis always present, grafted onto the pastry components (praline almonds, shortcrust pastry, custard). Candied orange peel, a hint of milk chocolate, a flair of rhubarb.
Very long finish, an infinite crasis of nose and palate, dry and creamy at the same time, that makes you look at the empty glass with a sense of satisfaction and gluttony at the same time.
A very elegant, full-bodied whisky, with an overwhelming energy even considering its age, perfectly embodying the spirit of the distillery and enhancing it to the nth degree. Too bad it is now virtually unobtainable, but if you happen to find it in a bar, don’t miss it.