Origin: Speyside (Scotland)
Type: Single Malt Scotch Whisky
Strength: 46%ABV
Ageing casks: Ex-Sherry Oloroso, ex-Bourbon
Chillfiltered: No
Added colouring: No
Owner: J & A Mitchell & Co Ltd.
Average price: € 95.00
Official website: www.cadenhead.scot
Vote: 87/100
Founded in 1896, Tamdhu in its history has faced several periods of closure (1911-1913, 1927-1948, 2009-2012) and an overall redevelopment (1970s), suffering from the understandably challenging proximity of Macallan, only a dozen kilometres away. But thanks to the new ownership, Ian McLeod Distillers, who brought it back into operation in 2012, it has been able to carve out its own area of interest. The whisky is aged exclusively in former sherry casks, for their ability to enhance the quality of the distillate (such is the claim on the website). One last curiosity: in July 2013, Gordon & MacPhail offered in its Private Collection a 53yo, 1960 vintage, in only 24 bottles, which is currently the oldest Tamdhu ever bottled.
Today’s dram comes not from the core range (12yo, 15yo, 18yo, plus some special Cask Streght editions), but from Cadenhead’s, Scotland’s oldest indie. Distilled in 2007, matured in ex oloroso sherry casks before a final passage of one year in refill ex bourbon casks, this whisky, proposed in the Original Collection at 46%, is, at the time of writing, still widely available.
Tasting notes
The colour closely resembles that of chestnut honey.
On the nose it is almost impossible to imagine a more sherried attack: compact in the front row we find sultanas, dried figs, blackberries and blueberries (especially the latter), cherry jam and caramel, with a caress of strawberry in the background. This sweetness is not at all overpowering, perhaps because it is mitigated by a ‘tannery’ scent of leather (sofa or armchair?) and memories of vanilla, shortcrust pastry and sponge cake, which have the consistency of light kisses on the cheek. As the minutes pass, impressions of polished dark wood, honey (chestnut) and pine resin.
On the palate, the overall sensation is one of bitter creaminess, with nuances of caramel, nuts, dried figs and polished dark wood. An elegant dusting of white pepper. Blood orange zest and blueberry jam. As the drinking continues, dates make themselves felt.
The finish is fun: at first it seems pale in tone and duration, then it lengthens pleasantly, on notes of caramel and strawberry, with that hint of leather that ideally closes the circle and prepares for another sip.
How much weight the year in ex-bourbon barrels has in the final result is hard to say, at least for us. Probably just a touch, to ‘shape’ the sweetness of the dram. What is certain is that our first Tamdhu is a very positive drink that even has the merit of improving over time, with interesting variations on an apparently consoling aromatic score.