Provenance: Isle of Mull (Scozia)
Typology: Single Malt Scotch Whisky
Ageing barrel: Ex-Bourbon finished in ex-Tokaji Second Fill
Added coloring: No
Owner: Wilson & Morgan
Average price: € 257.00
Official website: www.wilsonandmorgan.com
We return to the Barrel Selection series from bottlers Wilson&Morgan, this time going to the remote island of Mull, to fish out a Tobermory whose base malt I quite liked.
Like the Cameronbridge I mentioned a while back, this whisky has spent the last four years maturing in a second-fill cask of a former Hungarian wine, Tokaji.
Distilled in 1996 and bottled cask strength in 2019, 229 bottles of this version were produced, and it won the gold medal at the 2019 Milano Whisky Festival.
Expectations, let’s face it, are a little high….
Dark amber in the glass.
Ripe apricot fills the nose with its rich sweetness, accompanied by the freshness of herbaceous tones, citrus and honey with a drop of lemon. Vinous impressions are expressed in plums and sultanas, with a distinct minerality that resets the nose, restarting the dance of aromas at every approach. The wax embraces the whole, giving soft elegance. There is no need to sink your nose in, the perfume reaches you even from a distance, full-bodied and rich.
The alcohol content is a happy companion to the flavours, not at all aggressive, on the contrary, it amplifies the spicy scents of the wood adding complexity to an already stratified palette of aromas, where the whisky becomes even fuller, giving up part of its freshness to the sweeter component, with fruit and citrus tart combined with hazelnuts, a touch of liquorice and dark chocolate. Not an easy drink, but it rewards concentration and patience.
The finish is long, dry, of hazelnuts, liquorice, spices and apricot.
Tobermory on steroids, where age and gradation combine efforts with the wine cask (not at all invasive) to push the distillery’s tones to impervious heights of complexity. It’s certainly not an everyday whisky, and not just because of the price.
Other bottlings from Wilson & Morgan in the blog:
Wilson & Morgan Ben Nevis 7yo (2013-2020)
Wilson & Morgan Bunnahabhain 2014
Wilson & Morgan Cameronbridge 33yo
Wilson & Morgan Glen Grant 25yo
Wilson & Morgan House Malt 2013-2018
Wilson & Morgan Ledaig 2008
Wilson & Morgan Macduff 2006